This is the description wine connoisseur Max Allen gives to Ian and Caryl Cairns's boutique pinot noir.

Ian Cairns has lived in the "inspiring little valley" of Liffey since 1972.

As nature tip-toes around us, it is easy to see why.

He and wife Caryl have been producing their Tasmanian organic wine Bye's Pinot Noir for the past five years.

Their land was originally used for market gardening, but in 1999 the couple planted their first vines.

"When we made a good wine we thought, `why don't we turn the whole place over to vines,"' Mr Cairns said.

"We could make a modest living if everything worked out so we did, and it has - and the life is incredible."

Last year the 400 pinot noir and 1600 burgundy clone vines, which are trained with double canopies, produced 3000 bottles of Bye's Pinot Noir.

It is sold in restaurants such as Black Cow and Fresh in Launceston and Saffire on the East Coast.

Mr Cairns's passion for his wine is evident.

"Grape vines are a very sexy things - they really are," Mr Cairns said.

He said he wakes up at 5am in the morning to tend to the vines.

The work includes hand- training the branches so they continue to grow upwards and not outwards, and removing any unnecessary leaves, to allow maximum sunlight to penetrate the vines.

The cold nights at Liffey are conducive to growing pinot.

"It is the amount of sunlight, compared to the amount of degrees that you get in a period of growth that determines what the wine is," Mr Cairns said.

"If it is too hot, it doesn't manufacture the tastes."

Mr Cairns said biodiversity including plant, bird and insect life also affect the taste of the wine.

"Our vines grow from a healthy living soil, jam packed full of worms, fungus and all the microbiology that goes on," he said.

"It is the best it can be."

The epicurean philosophy terra terroir also influences the wine and Mr Cairns's way of life.

"It is purely for the lifestyle that we do it, I couldn't imagine doing anything else," he said.